For me, one of the real jewels of the ACMS collection is the original model PDP-8 (aka the straight-8). There is so much to love from the whopping 4k words of core memory to the wood grain paneling she is a thing of beauty.
At the end of September, @daveeverett and I took the perspex side panels off the cabinet and started a full inspection. Apart from dust and grime, everything looked to be in pretty good shape. So we set to work restoring it to working order with the first objective being the model 708A power supply.
Goal #0 for this project: To restore the PDP-8 in as original condition as possible choosing repair over replacement every time.
The power supply is tucked behind the glorious front panel and is somewhat accessible when you extend the computer itself out on the slides. Peering down in the supply, you get impression DEC got a pretty good deal on massive electrolytic capacitors back in the day.
Looking down from the top, you can see a few highlights:
- The ferroresonant transformer and it’s matched capacitor (Blue)
- Some of the 7 high current diodes bolted through the chassis (Gold)
- The “power OK” relay to prevent erratic supplies corrupting core memory (Red)
- The memory power supply regulators (Green)
SLOWLY SLOWLY…
The 708A features 15 silver coloured big boy electrolytic capacitors which have been sitting powered down for (likely) decades. If we were to throw 240VAC across the input at this stage, they would fail where the aluminium oxide has become thin over the years as it was eaten away by the electrolyte. The likely result being several large bangs. That means it’s time to reform them.
The basic procedure is to isolate each capacitor. That bit is made easier by the spade lugs! Then start by applying 10% of the working voltage. It’s extremely important to limit the to something small e.g. 10-20mA. I did this with a power supply that supports a controllable max current but a series resistor will also do the trick.
The setup for two at a time:
Assuming we don’t already have a dead short-circuit… the capacitor will SLOWLY charge up
to the supply voltage. If you look with a digital ammeter it will appear that current has ceased flowing. However a decent analogue ammeter like the AVO pictured will show that a small amount of current is still being drawn. This is actively reforming the oxide layer in the capacitor. After some time (minutes or even an hour), the current will flatten out and then eventually decrease towards zero. Bump the supply up another 10%, leave the current limited, rinse and repeat until you get up to the full working voltage.
What I’ve discovered: If you think you are rushing, you are. If you have to ask “how long”, the answer is longer.
After a large number of Saturdays, we now have 60 year old caps operating pretty close to spec. Zero bangs, all original parts!
More to come…
























